Viet Nam travel: A relaxing ride around town

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 - Cyclos have become not only an inextricable part of Hanoi’s culture but also one of its “tourist attractions” for foreign visitors to the city.

The history of Vietnamese cyclos

First appearing in Vietnam in the 1940s when the country was under the French colonialist rule, cyclos were primarily used by senior French officials to show their status symbol of luxury and wealth.

During wartime, the humble cyclo became an indispensable means of transport to help bring injured people to clinics for emergence treatment as well as food, weapon and ammunition to the front line.

Things have changed a lot since Vietnam regained its independence. Some cyclos are redesigned to become more solid for a heavy load.They are capable of carrying up to 500 kilos.

In the new context of international integration, the cyclo reclaims its fascinating role as the Vietnamese “pedicab taxi” to meet the growing demand of foreign tourists.

Why do tourists prefer cyclos?

Hanoi has been recognised by UNESCO as a city for peace but it is not very friendly to road users. Only a few foreigners dare cross the road or ride on the back of a “xe om” (motorbike taxi) at rush hour.

So, the cyclo turns out to be an ideal solution for them to enjoy a relaxing ride around town. Modern cyclos, with golden parasols and drivers who radiate professional pride, are particularly popular with foreign tourists.

Matty, a UK student at Hanoi University, said that he will never forget the feeling when he first boarded a cyclo.

“The cyclo seemed to overturn when I got on,” he said. “The driver was too small to keep his vehicle upright”.

“Life is slower and quieter when you are sitting on it,” said Theresa Nguyen, a Danish girl of Vietnamese origin.

For older Vietnamese people and foreigners staying long in Vietnam, the sight of old cyclos moving slowly in the streets is comfortingly familiar.

Most of Hanoi’s cyclos are found in the Old Quarter, where foreign tourists gravitate. But their customers are not restricted to tourists—cyclos often feature prominently in wedding celebrations, and even locals can enjoy the novelty of a stress-free trip.

A cyclo ride around the Sword-Returned (Hoan Kiem) Lake costs around VND50,000-100,000 depending on one’s bargaining panache.

Cycloing – hard work for steady pay?

Touring the city on a weekend afternoon, you can see dozens of cyclo drivers and their beautifully decorated “taxis” waiting for customers on one side of the Opera House.

Due to the Hanoi administration’s decision to tighten inspections of the city’s cyclo operations, almost all drivers are now working for a company.

Lam, a sixty-year-old driver, said life has become harder for him.

“No company wants to hire me”, he said. “They think that I am too old to work”.

Tran, a cyclo driver from the suburban district of Thanh Tri claimed to have done the job for over ten years.

“Everyday I make five or six trips around the lake or in side the Old Quarter,” he said. “It is hard work but gives me a fixed income to support my family”.

“Xe Oms” have a heart too

Ask any foreigner what their least favourite aspect of Vietnam is and the list will undoubtedly include Xe Om (motorbike taxi) drivers. They are annoying at best. Pushy, smelly, rude and downright dangerous at worst.

But they are unavoidable. Thinking back to before I arrived in Hanoi, after hearing of the fabled Xe Om from weary travellers, I worried how and where I would find one. How will he know where to take me? How much will it be? Bargain!? How the hell do I do that? However, after only a few weeks in Vietnam hearing ‘Xe Om, moto!’, or even the more polite ‘Hallo sir, moto?’ instantly received a look of disdain from me.  I said no, I avoided them, I ignored them. But my crippling inability to balance, and thus my complete inability to ride a motorbike, has left me completely reliant on these two-wheeled street dwellers.

My reliance has meant I have built up quite a roster of acquainted and trusted Xe Oms – my Xe Om’s. And of course, they are not all that bad.

I met Giang the Xe Om about two weeks into my stay. I was walking along my street to the corner where I knew they would be plentiful, when he popped out of nowhere – ‘Moto?’, ‘Vung’, I replied. I unfurled a piece of paper on which a Vietnamese friend had written what I thought said ‘Vietnam Military Museum’ in Vietnamese. He gave the nod. When we arrived I was surprised to find that I wasn’t presented with the tank and airplane which I was told graced the entrance car park, and the Lenin monument was certainly not over the road. I remonstrated (in classic English-abroad English), but he was adamant. Finally he pointed to the sign which matched perfectly with what was written on my piece of paper, I realised mine and my friend’s mistake and quite happily went to the Vietnam Museum of Revolution for the morning instead. He had calmly and politely put up with my rudeness and we laughed it off. That was good enough for me, and ever since he has been my No.1 guy.

However, that was long ago. The prices we agreed for our regular trips started to seem very expensive and I had lapsed into cynically accepting that every transaction I made included an added ‘Tay’-tax (the curious, if somewhat warranted, hardship of being charged more for being Western). I tried, admittedly, in ropey Vietnamese, to lower our agreed prices. He seemed annoyed and bluntly refused, and I felt cheated that my loyalty to him had not earned me a small discount. For a few days I adulterously travelled with other Xe Om drivers but none matched the reliability Giang had previously treated me with. I went back, and after our usual round trip to and from work he handed me a two page letter. He quickly sped off, as if embarrassed, before I could say anything. I got it translated and I was equally embarrassed by what he had said.

He explained that he was not charging me high prices because I am a Westerner. Instead, he said, the price may seem high because for the past few months he had waited outside my place of work for me to finish, therefore losing out on plenty of other fares. He ended his letter by saying he considered me a friend and that he felt deeply saddened at my misguided attempts to call his bluff on the added ‘Tay’-tax.

I had always called him five minutes before I leave work, allowing him ample time, along with my slow walk down six flights of stairs, to arrive. Little did I know that he was waiting there all along, happily and loyally waiting to honour our agreement.

I had taken for granted this quite wonderful service.

Ask yourself – is there any other place in the world that boasts such a convenient, cheap and ever-available (if haphazard) transport system?

In particular, I had taken for granted my Xe Om’s service. Punctual, friendly and ever-reliable, Giang has made my life in the city so easy. I can call him and he will be there, no questions asked. He will drive me (safely) to my destination, pointing out some of the more interesting sites as we go. He has even invited me into his home almost every week, when his hospitality shows no bounds. After hearing about this article he has even asked me to spend National Day (September 2) with him and his family.

So next time you hear ‘Moto!’ take him up on the offer. Haggle – but not too hard – sit back, enjoy the ride and appreciate what this disorganised band of brothers do for this crazy city. Xe Oms have a heart too.

Paul Wilson

Viet Nam travel: A relaxing ride around town

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